Absorption
How quickly and deeply an ingredient sinks into the skin’s surface. Different oils and butters absorb at different rates, which changes how a product feels when applied.
Why It Matters:
Helps you choose whether you want a lightweight, fast-drying product or a richer, more protective one.
Active Ingredient
An ingredient added for a specific purpose in a formula — for example, an antioxidant to support freshness or a botanical extract chosen for its traditional uses.
Why It Matters:
Active ingredients give a formula its unique character and purpose, even in small amounts.
Antioxidant
A substance that helps slow the natural breakdown of oils and butters when exposed to air, light, or heat. Antioxidants extend shelf life and help keep formulations fresh.
Why It Matters:
Without antioxidants, oil-based products can spoil or smell rancid more quickly.
Butter
A plant-derived fat that is solid at room temperature but softens on contact with skin. Examples include shea, cocoa, and mango butter.
Why It Matters:
Butters add richness and body to a formula, creating a conditioning and luxurious feel.
Carrier Oil
A plant oil used to dilute and “carry” other ingredients, such as essential oils. Examples include jojoba, almond, and grapeseed oil.
Why It Matters:
Carrier oils form the base of many skincare products and determine much of the texture and absorption.
Cold-Pressed
A method of extracting oil from seeds, nuts, or fruits without heat. This preserves more of the oil’s natural compounds, but the oil may be more delicate.
Why It Matters:
Cold-pressed oils often retain stronger natural scents and nutrients, making them prized in skincare.
Emollient
An ingredient that softens and smooths the skin by creating a light protective layer on its surface.
Why It Matters:
Emollients give formulations their silky feel and help reduce rough or flaky skin texture.
Essential Oil
Highly concentrated aromatic compounds extracted from plants through distillation or pressing. They are potent and should always be diluted before skin application.
Why It Matters:
Essential oils add fragrance and can bring traditional herbal uses to a formulation.
Extract
A preparation made by soaking plant material in a medium like oil, glycerin, or alcohol to draw out certain compounds.
Why It Matters:
Extracts add natural scent, color, or botanical character to formulations.
Humectant
An ingredient that helps draw water into the outer layer of the skin. Examples include glycerin and honey.
Why It Matters:
Keeps products from feeling dry and helps skin feel plump and hydrated.
Hydrosol
The lightly scented water that remains after distilling plants for essential oils. Hydrosols are much gentler than essential oils.
Why It Matters:
They’re often used as toners, mists, or in water-based products where a subtle scent is desired.
Infusion
Steeping herbs, flowers, or other botanicals in a liquid (like oil or water) so their aroma and properties gently transfer into the base.
Why It Matters:
A simple way to enrich oils or waters with the character of plants.
Maceration
Soaking plant material in oil or another medium over time to draw out its compounds. Unlike infusion, this is a slower process, often lasting weeks.
Why It Matters:
Creates richly scented and colored oils with traditional herbal character.
Occlusive
An ingredient that forms a barrier on the skin’s surface, helping slow down water loss. Examples include beeswax, lanolin, and heavier oils.
Why It Matters:
Occlusives help lock in moisture and protect skin in dry environments.
Preservative
An ingredient that prevents bacteria, yeast, or mold from growing in a product, especially if it contains water.
Why It Matters:
Preservatives are essential for keeping water-based products safe and usable over time.
Solubility
The ability of one substance to dissolve completely into another. For example, some extracts dissolve in oil but not in water.
Why It Matters:
Understanding solubility prevents separation and ensures a stable, effective formula.
Surfactant
A substance that lowers the surface tension between oil and water so they can mix more easily. Found in cleansers, shampoos, and body washes.
Why It Matters:
Surfactants allow products to foam, spread, and lift away dirt and oil.
Suspension
A mixture where tiny particles (like clays or exfoliants) are evenly distributed in a liquid but don’t dissolve.
Why It Matters:
Good suspension keeps particles from settling at the bottom of a container.
Tincture
A concentrated extract made by soaking herbs in alcohol or glycerin. Usually used in small amounts in skincare.
Why It Matters:
Offers an easy way to capture plant character in a stable form.
Wax
A solid, pliable substance used to thicken and stabilize formulations. Examples include beeswax and candelilla wax.
Why It Matters:
Waxes give structure to balms and salves while adding a protective layer on the skin.
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