![[background image] of sea landscape (for a maritime service)](https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/68519729b16b09b1c70802eb/68a23db52bddc5018da8b100_Label%20Hero.png)
In the world of skincare, ingredient labels can feel like a foreign language. Long chemical names, mysterious abbreviations, and vague terms like "fragrance" can make it hard to know what you’re really putting on your skin.
Learning to read labels doesn’t just make you a more informed consumer, it deepens your understanding of formulation, empowers you to make better choices, and helps you spot products that align with your values.
Here’s how to decode the fine print, one section at a time.
1. Start With the INCI Name
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It’s a standardized naming system used across the skincare and cosmetics industry. Every ingredient, whether it’s a botanical extract or synthetic compound, has an INCI name.
For example:
- Shea butter is listed as Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
- Lavender essential oil appears as Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
- Water is Aqua
These names may look intimidating, but once you learn to recognize the ones you use often, they become second nature.
2. Order Matters
By law (in most countries), ingredients must be listed in descending order by weight. That means the ingredient that makes up the largest percentage of the product comes first.
There are a few key things to know here:
- The first five ingredients usually make up the bulk of the formula
- Ingredients used at less than 1% can be listed in any order after the main ones
- Preservatives, essential oils, and actives often appear near the end of the list
If the ingredient a product is advertising (like rosehip or vitamin C) is buried at the bottom, it likely has minimal presence.
3. Understand Functional Roles
Each ingredient plays a role in the formula. Here are a few categories to be familiar with:
- Emollients: Soften and moisturize (e.g., shea butter, squalane)
- Humectants: Attract water to the skin (e.g., glycerin, hyaluronic acid)
- Occlusives: Create a barrier to lock in moisture (e.g., beeswax, petrolatum)
- Preservatives: Prevent microbial growth (e.g., phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate)
- Actives: Provide targeted benefits like brightening or exfoliation (e.g., niacinamide, salicylic acid)
Understanding these roles helps you assess what a product is actually designed to do.
4. Decode the Mystery Terms
Some terms on a label can feel intentionally vague. Here’s what a few of them typically mean:
- Fragrance/Parfum: This umbrella term can include dozens of undisclosed ingredients, including potential allergens. Look for products labeled "fragrance-free" if you're sensitive.
- Natural: Not a regulated term. It can mean anything from minimally processed botanicals to synthetic ingredients derived from natural sources.
- Active Ingredient: In some regions, this label is used in products classified as drugs, such as sunscreens or acne treatments. It indicates the component that performs the product’s main function. In the U.S., this term is reserved for over-the-counter drug products such as sunscreens or acne treatments.
5. Watch for Common Red Flags
Everyone’s sensitivities and values are different, but here are a few ingredients often flagged by conscious consumers:
- Synthetic fragrance: May trigger irritation or contain phthalates
- Parabens: Preservatives with potential hormone-disrupting effects (e.g., methylparaben, propylparaben)
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS): A cleansing agent that can be harsh on sensitive skin
- Formaldehyde releasers: Preservatives that slowly release formaldehyde (e.g., DMDM hydantoin, quaternium-15)
This doesn’t mean all synthetic ingredients are harmful—but if a label doesn’t align with your comfort zone, it’s okay to choose differently.
6. Compare Products Side-by-Side
Want to know if a higher-priced product is worth it? Compare the ingredient list with a more affordable option. You might find the formulas are surprisingly similar or that the budget version skips out on the actives.
Learning to read labels gives you the power to::
- Shop more intentionally
- Avoid hype-based marketing
- Invest where it counts
7. What This Means for DIY
When you formulate your own skincare, you become the ingredient label. That’s one of the biggest benefits of DIY: full transparency and complete control.
By understanding commercial labels, you’ll:
- Know which ingredients are worth sourcing
- Learn which preservatives or emulsifiers you might want to explore
- Spot safe and effective combinations you can adapt in your own recipes
Final Thoughts
Reading an ingredient label is like learning a new language, and once you do, you’re empowered to make choices that truly support your skin and your values.
And once you’ve had the experience of making your own, those labels won’t seem so mysterious anymore.
Next in the Series — Intro to Preservatives in DIY Skincare: What, When & Why